Inside the Basin

Despite attempts to try and reinvent itself, Sudbury is first and foremost a mining city. A mining city. Sure, Ontario has its share of mining towns (Timmins, included), but Sudbury is a city. A small one of 150k, but a city nonetheless. It has office towers, a public transit system, an airport, a nightlife (well, sort of), a university, shopping malls and yes, even Big Box stores, too. At the heart of all this action, though

, is INCO, the world's second largest producer of nickel. INCO cannot be ignored. From its superstack that can be seen from the highway a solid half hour before arriving, to the ominous looking slag heaps that run alongside the outskirts of the city, there is no question as to why this Northern community exists and who innevitably pulls all the financial strings. There are other bit players, but INCO is the area's predominant force-- its presence as bold as its constructivist-styled logo implies.

The bulk of INCO's mining, smelting and refining operations occur within the boundaries of the Sudbury basin: an oval shaped area roughly 30 x 60km wide, formed as the result of a meteorological impact 1.8 billion years ago. Or so the story goes. Whatever the case, the entire area is rich with a whole whack-load of good stuff that would normally be pretty hard to get at. I'll be honest here. Geology: not exactly an interest of mine.

By leaving Toronto at 6 AM, we effectively beat the often horrific weekend traffic jams that can occur en route to "cottage country." We arrive in Sudbury four and a half hours later, and with two Mcdonald's meals under my belt (breakfast, and later, a snack) I'm good to go. We decide to put off booking a place to stay for the night, figuring no one in their right mind would visit a place like Sudbury during a holiday weekend. Instead, we of sound mind, drive off in search of old mines. Armed with a few notes and a rather sketchy surveyor's map from the late 80s, we head East along the Trans-Canada Highway to an area where we know a handful exist.

A good hour later, after taking a series of wrong turns, we eventually make our way into a set of backroads. We find our way into the first mine on the list: a medium-sized operation with your standard issue headframe, a series of conveyors leading off into various satellite buildings, and a parking lot full of pickup trucks. Definitely an active place. Seeing no point in hanging around, we decide to turn back and make our exit.

On the way out, though, we notice an adjacent road with a partially closed gate and a sign nearby that reads "Crean Hill Mine." Another one on our list. Before we get a chance to contemplate whether or not we should try following said road, Kendall points out a pickup truck pulling up towards us. Not surprising given the fact that we are driving a Honda Civic. Reliable yes, but a backwoods mining kind of car it just ain't.

We decide to get out of the car, because when in doubt, you always approach security first and try making the nicey nicey with them. I let Kendall do the talking. He gives the lady in the truck the story about how we're up from Toronto looking to take photographs of mines. It's a pleasant enough exchange. "We don't have stuff like this where we're from." She seems mildly sympathetic, but tells us in as many words that nothing of the sort is going to happen. She mentions something about needing hard hats and safety boots. Apparently mines are "dangerous." Typical. She also points out the elephant in the room which is the partially opened gate that we're parked directly in front of. "You guys can't go through there either. It's active." Fair enough. We say our goodbyes and go on our way in search of more accommodating locations.

Up next: Holy Mackinaw! A Bonafide Abandoned Mine!

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